headache

The sharp eyed amongst you (Peter) may have noticed that we reluctantly doubled back to Khartoum thanks to the reoccurring problem that was the head gasket. Despite successfully sourcing a replacement in Jordan, the back street mechanic not only left out no less than seven vital components but also failed to spot that the cylinder head had warped. Thanks to some careful driving we managed to nurse it through the past month however the head was unable to cope with the unbearable heat that is Sudan.

This little incident saw us use a total of 100 litres of water in a drought-riddled country in order to limp the car 150km back to a Land Rover garage. Unfortunately due to the trade embargo imposed by the West parts were nigh on impossible to get our greasy little hands on, and when we did they carried a huge premium.

New cylinder head: $700. Ouch.

censorship is rife

We are currently knee deep in censorship and are unable to upload any photographs of our adventures. Please do not panic as we will strive to beat the system wherever possible.

Watch this space.

highlights please

Due to our change of route and general lax attitude we don’t have a single travel guide. Many fear that we will miss the hidden gems but we prefer to live a life of surprise.

Despite our unwillingness to consult the ‘experts’ we had been informed of the amazing drive from Wadi Halfa to Atbara. The three to four day drive would see us cross the sparse desert with no option to refuel or restock the water supplies – exciting we thought. Not so. Unfortunately it appears the authors of said book first visited in 1992 and have yet to return. This lull in proceedings has given the Sudanese authorities ample time to professionally seal the desert road.

Though we are normally champions of African development we were left bitterly disappointed.

Bring back the sand!

the sea captain & his small rat

Success! Having scuppered the hopes of a swiss couple we finally boarded the ferry to Sudan.

In order to save our few remaining copper pennies we opted to sleep on deck and enjoy a combined breakfast, lunch & dinner of a single orange, one banana and a small packet of crisps. Though we managed to avoid sharing our small meal with the rats we weren’t so lucky with our contraband rum.

word up

I’m afraid our posts may become more sporadic as we trudge across Sudan and down through Ethiopia. However, panic not, we will aim to update you of the stories we both encounter and create as and when we can.

We beg of you don’t give up on us and don’t forget you can follow our progress in real time by clicking on the ‘current location’ tab at the top of the page.

Wish us luck.